Sunday, June 5, 2011

Pyjamas continued with more tips

This week was super busy.  I attended a great 2 day sewing class, something got stuck in my eye for two days, and I had to work outside on the few nice days we had this week.  But let's get back to sewing.

Continuing on with the pjs.

One thing I forgot to mention last week.  After you shorten the legs of the pattern, you must check that the length from the crotch to the hem is the same on the front and back.

Now that the pattern is cut out and marked, it's time to sew.

These pyjamas have a drawstring waistband with ties and elastic.  They need buttonholes for the ties.  I used to shy away from buttonholes until I got this sewing machine.  It produces a great buttonhole in one step.  When you are looking for a new machine, take your own fabric to the store and test drive the buttonhole feature.

Before sewing the buttonhole, you need to iron on a piece of interfacing to the back of the fabric.  Mark the buttonhole placement,

Test your buttonhole on a scrap first.  You may need to adjust tension, stitch balance, or length.

 Once stitched, I add a small amount of fray check along the centre of the buttonhole.  This prevents the "whiskers" that sometimes happen when you cut the buttonhole.  Let the fray check dry.

Buttonhole cutting tools include fray check, small sharp scissors, buttonhole cutter.

I use a buttonhole cutter.  It is sharp and easy to use.  Just line it up and stab.

There are a couple of ways to construct the pants but in general I like to make each leg first.  Sew a front and a back together. I stitched with a 1/4 inch seam allowance and serged the seams.  Press all seams to the back. For the pants, I chose to make a separate cuff so I constructed it as well.  I wanted to add piping to the seam joining the cuff to the leg.

Change the foot on your machine to a zipper foot.  The sliding adjustable ones work best.  Lower your needle  and slide the foot against it.

Press the piping first to get rid of the package folds, then pin to the seam keeping it smooth.  I like to pin  horizontally not vertically.  allow a 2 -3 inch overlap and cut off excess.  My pattern has a 1/4 inch seam allowance and the piping has 3/8 inch.  I called it even as I didn't think 1/8 inch would throw off my length.  Take this cuff to the machine.  Start 2 inches from the beginning and lower your needle first into the fabric.  Check that it matches the piping stitching exactly.  If not try again.  When the needle is in the correct spot, lower the pressure foot.  Stitch to 3 inches from the end.

 Stop and raise the pressure foot keeping your needle in the fabric.  line up the piping and mark the meeting point with a pin.

 Open up the end of the piping with a stitch ripper and trim the cord at the pin.  Fold back the piping fabric at a 45 degree angle.  Finger press.  Meet the cord edges together and cover the beginning with the folded fabric from the end.  Sorry I took photos of each step but they were super blurry.  Continue stitching until you are past were you started.

 The stop and start points should blend together.

Sew the upper pant leg to the cuff along the same stitching line.  Serge or finish the seam allowance and press down.
Piping join

 Turn one leg right side out and insert inside the other leg.  Match the seams and sew the crotch seam.

 This pattern calls for ties with elastic.  The fastest way I know for making ties is with a serger.  Mine is dying so I apologize for the poor quality stitching.  I am looking for a replacement.
 First make a long chain using a medium or small stitch length.  This makes the chain stronger.  Make the chain longer that the tie.  Bring it forward but don't cut it off.  Lift the foot and fold the tie (right sides together)  around the chain and push the chain to the fold.  Lower the pressure foot on the fabric and serge the tie to the then.
 Remove from the machine and gently pull the chain.  You may need to help the fabric begin to turn in but once it starts it is easy to pull the chain to turn the tie.

 Because my serger tension is off , I edge stitched both sides for added strength.  Fold one end in and press.  Turn and press again.  Stitch to give a finished edge.  Attach the ties to the elastic.

To form the casing I serged the raw edge of the waist. folded and pressed down 1 and 1/4 inches.  I edge stitched around the top about 1/8 inch from the fold.  Open up the casing and place  the elastic up against the stitching.  Attach the elastic to the side seams.

Carefully stitch the casing closed making sure not to catch the elastic or ties.  Stretch the elastic as you sew to keep every thing smooth and flat.

Instead of making ties I used a ribbon.

The hem is a double 1 inch hem topstitched.

I have asked my daughter for a photo shoot and she will try to fit into her busy schedule.  In the meantime she is wearing the shorts and sleeping.  I couldn't wait any long to post.

I hope you found this interesting or helpful.  Please let me know if I should keep doing this kind of a post.
Thanks for dropping by.

Partying at 


sew many ways


DeniseAngela said...

Hope your eye is OK! This was a awesome tutorial....the piping is something I have shyed away from, this will help! I find these type of posts very helpful because of all the Yes! to doing these type of posts.

Andrea said...

Hi Janlynn, I found you here from a comment you left on my brand new blog. Thanks for stopping by, and nice to meet you. I've enjoyed checking out your blog today. Great jammies, and I'm in love with the ruffle pillow. Pillows are one of my favorite things also. I hope summer has found it's way up there to you.


Kim @ Cheap Chic Home said...

You are uber fastidious with your sewing. The pj shorts look perfect. I enjoy seeing the cowboy fabric, so graphic and whimsical.

Laura Ingalls Gunn said...

Oh my goodness how I love the bird material. Ok, the cowboy material too. But don't tell my hubby. :)